Saturday in Edinburgh started out beautifully sunny and full of promise. Since we first decided to include Scotland (at last!) on this trip, I had wanted to go to Glasgow to learn more about Charles Rennie Mackintosh, whose design work influenced so many people whose work I like (David Lance Goines, Frank Lloyd Wright, and notable others). So today was the day: we took a 50-minute ride from Edinburgh to Glasgow, got off the train, and started the Rick Steves walk that would end at the Glasgow School of Art, where Mackintosh had studied. He designed every detail of one of the School's buildings, which now, of course, is famous.
On the way, we passed the Willow Tearooms, which he also designed:
Though I was afraid it would be just too treacly, it was in fact very enjoyable. We were headed for more Mackintosh, and feeling good.
Following Rick's map, we went uphill to Renfrew and Douglas Streets, wondering why the brick building at the corner was fenced off, and where the School might be. Well, we found it on Renfrew:
But by then the heartbreak was obvious. The building suffered a fire just last Friday -- eight days ago -- and our visit was clearly not to be. Here's the front door:
and along the front wall:
And the side of the building, where the fire had grown from the basement to the roof:
This disaster was by far the worst thing we experienced on the trip (far worse than being pick-pocketed in London and cancelling my debit card). I talked to a policewoman nearby
who said that quick work by the fire brigade had helped to save 90% of the contents and 70% of the building. This seems incredible, but I hope it's true. Nonetheless, it will be many months before the building and its exhibits, offices, classrooms, and studios will be back. It took the firefighters eight hours to ensure that the fire was out, and workers have begun now to remove the top of the building "brick by brick," she said, to save pieces for restoration. This is very unfortunate.
No comments:
Post a Comment